Applying Fjallraven Greenland Wax to Protect Fabric

Fjällräven G-1000 and Greenland Wax: how to wax, where to apply it, and how to care for it

March 25, 2013

G-1000 is Fjällräven’s hardwearing poly-cotton fabric used across jackets, trousers and packs. Its significant advantage is that performance can be tuned with wax: add more for tougher weather and abrasion; use less for better airflow in warmer conditions. This guide brings both topics together in one place, with practical steps and a few product examples that explain why the fabric has earned such a strong reputation.

Looking for the essentials first? Here are the quick answers people usually need:

Best all-round approach: apply thin layers and build up only where required.
Best places to wax: high-exposure and high-wear zones (shoulders, hood, knees, seat, hems).
Re-wax timing: when water stops beading, after frequent washing, or when abrasion has dulled protection.
Keep breathable areas lighter: underarms, back panels, and any airflow-focused fabric zones.

What G-1000 is and why Fjällräven backs it

While many brands prioritise ultra-lightweight fabrics, Fjällräven has long prioritised durability and long service life. This thinking runs through much of the Fjällräven clothing and kit line-up, and it’s especially clear in G-1000 pieces designed to be used hard and repaired rather than replaced.

A key influence here is Johan Skullman, a product consultant and ex-military equipment tester. His view is straightforward: in demanding conditions, lighter fabrics can be more prone to rips and tears right when you need reliability most. That’s why heavier G-1000 variants are often used in high-wear zones, such as shoulders, sleeves, and extended backs on specific designs, where abrasion and weather exposure are most common.

Which G-1000 versions take wax best

Not every G-1000 version needs the same amount of wax. The aim is to tune protection to the job, not to coat everything heavily by default.

G-1000 Eco: recycled polyester and organic cotton; strong for everyday use. Takes wax well.
G-1000 HeavyDuty (and HD Eco): denser weave for packs and high-wear panels; accepts heavier waxing.
G-1000 Lite: lighter and cooler; a light coat can add shower resistance without much weight.
G-1000 Air: designed for airflow; keep unwaxed or very lightly waxed to retain ventilation.

What Greenland Wax is made from

Greenland Wax is a solid bar made from paraffin and beeswax. It’s clean to handle, quick to apply, and easy to refresh. The finish is adjustable: a single thin coat suits mixed spring weather; extra coats increase protection against wind, drizzle and damp foliage.

If you want the exact product used in the steps below, here’s the page for the Greenland Wax bar for G-1000.

What waxing changes: weather, wind, durability and airflow

Weather resistance: improves beading against light rain and wet brush; water sits on the surface rather than soaking in quickly.
Wind protection: a waxed face slows airflow through the weave, reducing wind chill.
Durability: a slightly stiffer, smoother surface helps resist abrasion and dirt, supporting more extended wear.
Adjustable airflow: more wax increases protection and reduces ventilation; less wax keeps the fabric cooler and faster drying.

Where to focus the wax

Start with the zones that get the most weather exposure and friction. You can always add a second light coat later if needed.

Jackets: shoulders, hood, sleeve fronts and cuffs.
Trousers: thighs, knees and seat; hems if you walk through wet grass or heather.
Packs and accessories (G-1000 panels): base and outer pockets to resist spray and scuffs.

Simple application steps (iron or hairdryer)

Start clean and dry: dirt can trap under the wax, creating uneven results.
Apply thin layers: rub the Fjällräven wax for G-1000 fabric lightly over the surface in long, even strokes. If you can see thick, chalky build-up, you’ve probably applied too much at once.
Melt wax into the fibres:
- Iron: low to medium heat, no steam, slow passes until the wax disappears into the fabric.
- Hairdryer: warm, steady airflow at close range, moving continuously to avoid hotspots.
Cool and test: once cool, add a few drops of water. If beading is weak in key areas, repeat with another thin coat.

When to re-wax and how washing affects results

Reapply whenever water stops beading, after sustained abrasion (rucksack straps, frequent kneeling, scrambling), or after repeated washing. Spot-clean where possible; detergent and hot washes can reduce the wax finish and strip it faster than many people expect.

When to keep waxing light

Warm, dry trips; high activity; or garments with G-1000 Air panels for maximum ventilation. You can also keep waxing minimal on underarm zones and back panels to maintain airflow where you need it most.

What not to wax

Membrane or lined waterproof shells.
Fleece, knitwear and down baffles.
Vinylon F (for example, classic Kånken); it’s a different fabric with its own weather resistance.

Troubleshooting: patchy finish, sticky feel and overheating

Patchy or streaky finish

Cause: uneven wax application or incomplete melting.
Fix: reheat gently and keep the heat moving. If needed, add a skinny layer and melt again to even it out.

Sticky feel or heavy look

Cause: too much wax in one go, especially on lighter G-1000 types.
Fix: warm the area and blot lightly with a clean cloth as the wax softens, then let it cool and reassess.

Overheating marks

Cause: holding heat in one spot for too long.
Fix: keep the heat moving and always start on a lower setting. A hairdryer is often easier to control on seams and small panels.

G-1000 in real garments: why the fabric turns up in high-wear zones

Some Fjällräven designs lean into sturdier fabrics on purpose. The Numbers range is a good example of this thinking: pieces are often designed with a heavier fabric and reinforcement in the areas that get punished first. On certain anoraks, heavier G-1000 variants are used across shoulders, sleeves and extended backs to improve wind resistance and durability where it matters.

G-1000 isn’t limited to outer layers. Fjällräven shirts and trousers also use it to reduce friction and extend lifespan. A mountaineering shirt, for example, can include G-1000 reinforcement at the elbows, shoulders, back, and hips, helping it withstand straps and repeated movement. On trousers such as the Barents Pro, G-1000 can be used throughout and is further reinforced on the seat and knees, with knee pad pockets for added comfort when kneeling to pitch a tent or work on the ground.

If you’re browsing pieces built around these materials, start with Fjällräven jackets in G-1000 fabrics, then compare legwear via men’s Fjällräven trousers in G-1000 and women’s Fjällräven trousers selection. For add-ons and care extras, Fjällräven accessories and add-ons are a helpful place to check.

Video: a closer look at G-1000

This film explains Fjällräven’s G-1000 fabric and why waxing affects its performance. It also shows how the polyester-cotton blend is used across garments and packs, and how Greenland Wax helps you tune protection for different conditions.

G-1000: a durable, adaptable fabric used across Fjällräven jackets, trousers and packs, with performance tuned using wax.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Fjällräven G-1000 fabric?

G-1000 is Fjällräven’s durable polyester-cotton fabric used across jackets, trousers and packs. It is designed to handle abrasion and regular wear, and its weather protection can be adjusted using wax.

What is Greenland Wax made from?

Greenland Wax is a solid bar made from paraffin and beeswax. It is applied to G-1000 to increase wind resistance and help the fabric bead water in light rain.

Which G-1000 types take wax best?

G-1000 Eco and G-1000 HeavyDuty accept wax very well, with HeavyDuty handling heavier applications on high-wear zones. G-1000 Lite benefits from lighter coats, while G-1000 Air is usually best left unwaxed or only lightly waxed to keep ventilation.

How do you apply Greenland Wax to G-1000?

Work on clean, dry fabric. Rub the wax on in thin, even strokes, then melt it into the fibres using a low-to-medium iron with no steam or a hairdryer with steady heat. Let it cool, then test beading with a few drops of water and add another thin coat if needed.

Where should you wax a Fjällräven jacket or trousers?

Focus wax on the areas that see the most rain and abrasion. On jackets: shoulders, hood, sleeve fronts and cuffs. On trousers: thighs, knees, seat and hems if you walk through wet grass or heather. Keep underarms and back panels lighter to retain airflow.

How often should you re-wax G-1000?

Re-wax when water stops beading, after heavy abrasion from straps or frequent kneeling, and after repeated washing. Spot cleaning helps preserve the finish, while detergent and hot washes can strip wax faster.

Does waxing reduce breathability?

Yes, waxing reduces airflow because it fills the weave. That is why thin layers and targeted application work best: more wax increases protection and wind resistance, while lighter waxing keeps the fabric cooler and faster drying.

What should you not wax with Greenland Wax?

Avoid waxing membrane or lined waterproof shells, fleece and knitwear, and down baffles. Do not wax Vinylon F (used on classic Kånken), as it is a different fabric with its own weather resistance.

Why does wax look patchy or feel sticky on G-1000?

Patchiness usually comes from uneven application or incomplete melting; gentle reheating and thin top-up layers fix it. A sticky feel usually means too much wax at once, especially on lighter fabrics; warm the area and lightly blot, then let it cool before adding more.

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