How to Clean a Barbour Wax Jacket: Dirt, Lining, Odours and Mould

If your jacket also needs re-proofing, follow our separate step-by-step re-waxing guide after cleaning.

What to avoid: the golden rules

Before you start, these are the things that will damage a waxed jacket:

• No washing machine. The agitation and spin will strip the wax coating unevenly and can distort the shape.
• No detergent or soap. Any cleaning product designed to cut grease will also cut through the wax finish. Use cold water only on the outer fabric.
• No hot water. Heat softens and moves the wax, causing patchy areas. Always use cold water.
• No tumble dryer, radiator or direct heat. Dry naturally on a sturdy hanger in a ventilated space.
• No dry cleaning. Dry-cleaning solvents dissolve the wax coating.

If you follow those five rules, the jacket will look after itself for years with very little effort.

Routine cleaning: removing dirt and mud

This is the cleaning you will do most often — after a muddy walk, a wet day out, or just when the jacket looks grubby.

1. Let mud dry completely. Trying to wipe wet mud off a waxed surface pushes it into the fabric. Wait until it has dried and hardened.
2. Brush off dried mud and loose dirt. Use a soft-bristled brush (a clothes brush or clean nail brush works well). Brush gently in one direction, paying attention to seams, pocket flaps and the collar.
3. Wipe the surface with a cold, damp cloth or sponge. Wring the cloth out well — you want damp, not wet. Wipe across the surface to lift any remaining grime. For stubborn marks, use a slightly firmer pressure but avoid scrubbing.
4. Hang to dry naturally. Place the jacket on a sturdy hanger in a well-ventilated room, away from radiators, direct sunlight or any heat source. Allow it to dry fully before storing or wearing.

That is all routine cleaning requires. There is no need for soap, sprays or specialist products for everyday dirt.

How to clean the lining

The tartan cotton lining picks up body oils and perspiration over time, and it is the part of the jacket most likely to develop odour. Cleaning the lining needs a different approach from the outer fabric because you do not want moisture soaking through to the waxed surface.

1. Turn the jacket inside out. This gives you direct access to the lining and keeps the waxed outer away from your cleaning cloth.
2. If the lining is removable, unzip or unbutton it and wash separately. Hand wash in cold water with a small amount of mild liquid soap (a gentle hand wash or baby soap — not laundry detergent). Rinse thoroughly in cold water, press out excess water gently without wringing, and hang to dry flat or on a hanger.
3. If the lining is fixed, spot-clean only. Dampen a clean cloth with cold water and a tiny amount of mild soap. Gently dab and wipe the stained areas. Then go over the same area with a clean damp cloth (water only) to remove soap residue. Avoid soaking through to the waxed outer.
4. Dry naturally with the jacket inside out. Leave the jacket turned inside out on a hanger until the lining is completely dry before turning it back.

Important: mild soap is acceptable on the cotton lining only. Never use soap on the waxed outer fabric.

How to get creases out of a wax jacket

Deep creases can form in waxed cotton after storage or if the jacket has been folded for a long time. The wax stiffens in the fold line and holds the crease. The fix is gentle warmth:

1. Hang the jacket on a sturdy hanger in a warm room. Many light creases will drop out within a day or two as the wax softens at room temperature.
2. For deeper creases, use a hairdryer on a low heat setting. Hold it 15–20 cm from the fabric and keep it moving. The warmth softens the wax and allows the crease to relax. Smooth the area gently with your hand as the fabric warms.
3. As a last resort, use a warm iron on the lowest setting with a cotton cloth between the iron and the jacket. Press briefly and lightly — do not hold the iron in one spot. Check frequently because too much heat will melt the wax.

Avoid high heat at every stage. If the wax gets too warm it can redistribute unevenly, leaving shiny or dark patches. If that happens, a full re-wax will even the finish out — see our re-waxing guide.

How to remove odours (including smoke)

Waxed cotton can hold environmental smells — smoke, damp, dog, or the musty scent of a jacket stored in a sealed cupboard. The wax coating itself traps odour molecules, which is why a quick airing does not always solve the problem.

1. Air the jacket outdoors for 24–48 hours. Hang it on a sturdy hanger in a sheltered spot with good airflow — a covered porch or open garage works well. Avoid direct sunlight for long periods as UV can fade the fabric.
2. Wipe the outer surface with a cold damp cloth. This lifts surface-level residue that may be holding the smell.
3. For stubborn smells (especially smoke), sprinkle baking soda inside the jacket. Turn the jacket inside out, sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda over the lining, and leave it overnight. Shake out and brush off the next day. Baking soda absorbs odours without affecting the wax.
4. If the lining is removable, wash it separately following the steps in the lining section above. Most persistent odour sits in the lining rather than the waxed outer.

Avoid fabric sprays and air fresheners — they leave residue on the wax surface and can cause stickiness or discolouration. If the smell persists after trying the steps above, Barbour's own repair service can deep-clean the jacket professionally.

How to clean a mouldy Barbour jacket

Mould appears when a damp jacket is stored in a warm, airless space. It shows as white, grey or green patches, often around the collar, underarms and cuffs. Catching it early is important — surface mould is straightforward to deal with, but deep mould can stain the fabric permanently.

1. Take the jacket outside. Mould spores spread easily, so brush and clean outdoors or in a well-ventilated area rather than inside a wardrobe or small room.
2. Brush off loose mould with a soft-bristled brush. Use gentle, outward strokes. Dispose of the brushed-off material rather than shaking it back onto the jacket.
3. Mix equal parts white vinegar and cold water. Dampen (not soak) a clean cloth with the solution and wipe the affected areas firmly. Vinegar kills mould spores without harsh chemicals.
4. Wipe again with a cloth dampened with cold water only to remove any vinegar residue.
5. Hang the jacket in a well-ventilated spot and allow it to dry fully. This may take 24 hours or more depending on conditions. Do not store the jacket until it is completely dry.
6. Re-wax the cleaned areas. The vinegar solution will have thinned the wax in the treated spots. Spot re-wax those areas using Barbour wax dressing to restore the finish. If the mould was widespread, a full re-wax is a good idea — see our re-waxing guide.

Prevention: always hang your jacket on a hanger (never fold it) in a cool, dry place with airflow around the garment. Avoid sealed plastic garment bags and unventilated cupboards. If you store the jacket for a season, check on it every few weeks.

If the mould is heavy, deeply embedded, or has left permanent staining, Barbour's repair service or a professional cleaner experienced with waxed cotton is the safest option. In rare cases where the mould has damaged the fabric structure, replacement may be the only practical route.

Barbour wax care kits: what's included and whether you need one

Barbour sells several care kits that bundle the tools needed for cleaning and re-waxing. A typical kit includes a tin of wax dressing, a sponge or applicator, a brush, and instructions.

Whether you need a kit depends on what you already own. If you have a soft-bristled brush and clean cloths at home, the only item you strictly need to buy is the wax dressing itself — available as a standalone tin. The kits are useful if you want everything in one box, particularly as a gift or if this is your first re-wax.

For daily cleaning (wiping off mud and dirt), you do not need any Barbour-branded products — a damp cloth and cold water are all that is required.

When to re-proof after cleaning

Cleaning a waxed jacket — especially treating mould or heavy dirt — can thin the wax in the areas you have worked on. After any cleaning beyond a quick wipe-down, check the finish: if water no longer beads on the surface, or the fabric looks dry and dull in patches, it is time to re-wax.

Our re-waxing guide covers the full process step by step, including which Barbour wax to use for your jacket type.

Browse and buy

Browse the full Barbour wax jacket collection, or explore men's Barbour jackets and women's Barbour jackets across all styles. Check the Barbour sale for current reductions, or return to the main Barbour collection.

For cleaning and care products, browse our garment care collection.

More Barbour reading:

How to Re-Wax a Barbour Jacket
Living with a Barbour Wax Jacket
The History of Barbour
Why Are Barbour Jackets Expensive?
Barbour, for Queen and Country