Country tweed jackets and coats have moved far beyond their old image of dusty wardrobes and charity shop rails. Once the working clothing of large estates, tweed was worn head to toe by gamekeepers and estate staff, woven in colours that matched their own landscape. It was valued for warmth, strength and long service, even if it became heavy and awkward once wet.
Scottish and English mills still lead the way in producing tweed cloth, but modern tweed jackets and tweed coats are now made with improved yarns that reduce weight while keeping structure and durability. Many designs include breathable linings and refined finishes that make tweed easier to wear for daily use, travel and long days in the field.
Tweed was always considered a working fabric, or an essential piece of kit for the country gentleman once the stalking shooting seasons opened. A tweed jacket was a must at luncheon, finished off with a pair of cavalry twills and the beloved English brogues. Over the years, The Sporting Lodge has sourced tweed from its favourite suppliers in Scotland and Northern England – and these suppliers now manufacture tweed for the world’s finest designers. Once we rubbed shoulders with a grandfather kitting out his grandson with his first shooting suit, now we find ourselves buying from the likes of designers such as Vivienne Westwood and RRL by Ralph Lauren.
This time-honoured cloth is now seen in all our high street stores in all colours of the spectrum, to suit the needs of the fashionista and all pockets. We continue to purvey brands that manufacture only in British tweed, whether French, Italian, or German. One English manufacturer worthy of mention is Purdey, one of the oldest gun makers in the world, who produce exquisite tweed clothing all made in the UK. This tweed is mid-weight, and every detail of their clothing manufacturing is tested on all shapes and sizes of men and women. Their tweed is made to be worn for years, hence woven from the finest wool, and constructed to allow freedom of movement, whether in the field or driving to work.
What to look for when buying tweed?
- Mid-weight is always preferable.
- Garish colours should be avoided, as tweed should always represent the colours of the countryside – unless you have seen a pink sheep!
- Tweed should always be lined.
- Steer clear of bulky padded or heavy drop liners – this will make the cloth crease.
- Beware of Teflon or waterproof coatings, as these do not allow the wool to breathe, which is a must for any woollen fabric. They will stop staining, but your friends will notice your odour before they see you!
A tweed coat or jacket should always be viewed as an investment for the future. If treated well, tweed should last you a lifetime. And its only partner should be a well-made wooden coat hanger after a hard day in the field or a saunter round the city.
